Solo Female Vanlife in Baja

The Solo Female Vanlifer, Traveler, and Nomad in Baja

by Julianne Chapman

Baja is an incredible place and very safe, and just like other places there are things to take into consideration to keep it that way. Female travelers / vanlifers are well aware of the hyper-vigilance we feel, and it is vital to listen to that feeling and your gut.

In general remember that people who are capable of causing harm or just trying to get money are seeking an easy target; don’t be that target. In all interactions take up space: be polite, but confident and direct. Check your posture: make sure you are upright and making eye contact. 

If you have a dog, you will be asked “es brava” or dangerous, always say yes, he/she bites and keep her/him with you. 

Where to Cross into Mexico

I recommend crossing the border at Tecate or Mexicali and taking Highway 5 south, and not stopping until San Felipe. Most crime and police shakedowns happen around the border. Avoid the chaos of Tijuana and Ensenada.

Answering Questions

At the border and military check points you will be asked where are you going and why? Are you married and are you traveling alone? As annoying as these questions may be, make sure you know how you are going to answer, and be confident in your delivery.

Mexico has a long history of machismo culture and the value of genders is far from equal. I never tell people I am traveling alone. My friends are always “right behind me” or “should be here anytime.” I have even waved excitedly to other cars when I am at a stop to give the impression I am among friends. This is about safety, not a congeniality contest, so get comfortable taking up space. I know some women travel with a wedding ring because, unfortunately, you are seen to have more value when married.

Talking to the Police & the Military

Keep a loose $20 bill in the console of your car in case a police officer pulls you over. Unless you’re in an accident it is almost certainly a shakedown. Practice a friendly, but clear “No” and use it often. Police are paid very low wages in Mexico and some see travelers as dollar signs. Sometimes a $20 is less hassle, but other times ask for a ticket, and to go to the station.

Military check points are for looking for drugs or guns. In the rare case they tell you something else is not allowed they may just be seeking a bribe. Giving the money is a last resort and make sure you have all other money hidden, and state that the $20 is all you have.   

Protecting Your Valuables

Make sure your valuables are well hidden or on your person. Pockets are best. If someone asks to check your vehicle (which will happen at military checkpoints) you can step out or get out and watch them from the door. 

Avoid being inside with anyone where no one can see what’s going on; that is where you might be asked for money.  If asked to step into a private space say “no, nunca.” I am not comfortable and repeat it as many times as needed.

Where to Camp

Do not camp along the side of the road where you can be seen by traffic. Use one of our recommended campgrounds, or another app to find people to camp next to and introduce yourself right away. There are many RV parks and campgrounds in Baja. If the vibe doesn’t feel safe, get back in your car and keep moving, but do not drive at night as there are cattle on the roads. It can help to plan ahead to know where you’re going to camp before you get there. You want to avoid having someone knock on your door at night. 

The Kindness of Baja, Mexicanos, and Expats

I have encountered many kind, helpful and giving Mexican locals on my travels that have given me gas and helped when I was broken down on the side of the road. Mexico is very safe, but always keep your eyes open and be aware of your surroundings.

Your male friends might say everything is fine and safe but their reality is very different than yours, and you know this. Let that sensitivity in your gut be your guide, and it will help you have a wonderful, beautiful Baja trip.

If you have any questions feel free to reach out. I love connecting with other women in their journey. You are not alone. I look forward to seeing you in the waves, or on the sand. 

Warmly,

Julianne